The Jeweler of Kings and the King of Jewelers. Cartier has led the industry in design-forward wristwatches for nearly 125 years. The Parisian brand has surged on the secondary market in recent years – especially vintage Cartier – but they’ve been hiding in plain sight all along. Take a look below at the evolution of Cartier’s watch models through their experiments in form.
1904 – Santos de Cartier
It may not look like it, but this is technically the world’s first pilot’s watch. The Santos was designed by Cartier for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont in 1904. It’s also the world’s first men’s watch designed for the wrist (you need both hands to pilot a plane). The model has evolved since 1904 with the biggest change being the addition of its signature bracelet. The modern version makes for quite the daily driver thanks to 100m of water resistance and a screw-down crown.
1917 – Cartier Tank
When you think of Cartier, this is likely the watch you think of. The Cartier Tank was modeled after the tracks of the Renault F-17, a literal tank, although the watch is known for embodying elegance, not menace. The Tank has been worn by celebrities like Jackie Kennedy, Muhammed Ali, and Andy Warhol (who famously never set the time on his). The model even spawned its own category of watch, and you can find “Tanks” from Omega, Longines, Seiko, and more.
1967 – Cartier Crash
Rumor has it that the Cartier Crash was inspired by a Cartier watch that bent and warped during a car crash. The real story is that the watch’s design was inspired by the psychedelic styling of 1960s London, although everyone loves a good myth. In recent years, the Crash has become Cartier’s most sought-after model. One even sold for $1.6 million in 2022.
1972 – Cartier Pebble
The Pebble is one of Cartier’s more niche icons, unrecognizable to the general public but revered among enthusiasts. The watch features a rounded, pebble-like case with a unique diamond shaped dial. The watch gained newfound popularity on the wrist of musician Tyler, the Creator and through the model’s recent 50th anniversary reedition.
1977 – Cartier Tank Must
The Must de Cartier collection was designed as a more affordable way to bring Cartier elegance to the masses. The product line includes jewelry and fragrances, but we’ll focus on the watches for today. Critics of the watches site their gold-plated cases and quartz movements as signs of inferior quality. However, the new, steel versions with colorful dials received broad acclaim among enthusiasts.
1985 – Pasha de Cartier
The Pasha de Cartier is one of the brand’s few round watches. The model features divers, chronographs, and even watches with a protective grill over the crystal, similar to trench watches from World War I. The Pasha is yet another example of Cartier combining industrial touches with a jeweler’s spirit.
1996 – Cartier Tank Française
The Tank Française is one of Cartier’s most seen watches in the wild. The watch features Cartier’s signature elements combined with a bracelet that closely mimics the case architecture. Since its launch in 1996, the Tank Française has expanded to multiple sizes, multiple metals, and even a couple chronograph versions.
2001 – Cartier Roadster
The Roadster is one of Cartier’s most divisive designs. As the name suggests, the watch is heavily inspired by automotive design, particularly the 1950s Porsche 356. The dial is modeled after the speedometer, the case is crafted to resemble the smooth lines of the chassis, and the crown architecture is reminiscent of a classic hubcap. Despite earning some diehard fans, the Roadster was discontinued after roughly a decade of production.
2007 – Ballon Bleu de Cartier
The name Ballon Bleu translates to “blue balloon” in English. It’s one of the few round watches from Cartier, although it’s not perfectly round as you have the crown delightfully disrupting the symmetry of the watch. The Ballon Bleu now comes in a range of sizes and case materials. And if you’re a gem-lover, this is one to consider as it’s often found with factory-set diamonds.
2016 – Drive de Cartier
Clean and simple are perhaps the best words to describe the Drive de Cartier. Like the Roadster, the watch took inspiration from the automotive world and was only produced for a few years before being discontinued. The watch comes in a few sizes and features more complicated versions with a date, moonphase, and GMT functionality.
